RE: Fridge can't stay cool enough!
It's been in the shade for 7 hrs and dark for 4 hrs, yet it is just now getting it back down to 43 deg. It's 60 deg Ambient outside with a cool breeze.
I just read up on the ventilation in the rear, will check the chamber when I get it back home tomorrow. I keep hearing a Snap sound once in awhile. The last time I heard it an hour ago, it finally starting dropping temp again to the low 40's. Read about the AC Relay, maybe what I am hearing.
Looks like if it is a Control issue it would more likely be in the Upper PC panel (eyebrow. Seems the Thermistor failing would cause an Over-Cool condition, certainly don't have that. Have never smelled ammonia or seen any yellow staining.
I just don't get how it can start perfectly on AC at home, run 36 deg or colder for two days, then I move 30 miles and a day later it jumps into the mid to high 40's. Actually got up to 50 today. Now S L O W L Y coming down to 40. At home it got to 37 in 3.75 hrs after starting out at 67 deg interior.
I'm guessing it is going to be sitting at 32 again by AM since it is going down to 55 tonight outside. Sure is falling at a much slower rate even though it is 17 deg cooler outside then when I started it at home in the evening. Something not quiet right.
RE: Fridge can't stay cool enough!
Update: Ok, just Flopped it back over to Electric and now it started dropping the temp back down. Dropped about 3-4 deg in 20 min.
This is exactly what I did yesterday, switched to gas, then after a couple hours went back to electric and it's like the electric side kicked in and started cooling it down again. Only two degrees cooler outside, 78 deg. The Vent Panel is in the shade now however.
I'm thinking Fans would help, but seems like something going on with the Control Circuitry not regulating with these big temp swings and then I flip-flop Elec to Gas to Elec and get it to cool way down again.
Fridge can't stay cool enough!
Got a Dometic RM2652 Fridge and I can't keep it cold enough during the daytime.
Sitting here camping in Berlin and it ran on electric for 2.5 days just fine at home (36 deg) and a day here, now when it is 80 deg outside in the sun, no shade, can't keep the thing cold enough. Had it on Electric all the time and during the night it got down to 32Deg inside the cabinet by this AM, but warmed up all day to around 46 deg. I took it off electric, switched to gas, still 46 deg. in the box. Freezer stuff is frozen, but fridge won't stay cool enough in interior. I would expect it to be holding 38-40 deg???
I have the Slider Temperature Control on the Fins all the way to the top trying to hold it.
Any ideas?? Low on Ammonia? Some Temp Regulator failing?
TT unit is only 18 mos old, been out camping in use for about a dozen trips (weekends) and two trips for up to two weeks long. Seems to be getting weaker, showing up lately in last two weekends out. The best it ever seems to do is 40 deg consistently for a few days then it seems to jump up 6-8 deg. Getting concerned for food spoilage.
I just did find out this is under the Extended Recall and will have to get it fixed, but this doesn't sound related unless I already have cracks and loosing coolant.
Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!
RE: Suburban Water Heater problem
Just contacted the dealer where we got it last year and got him to ship me a Thermocouple just in case. In the mean time, the Brass Screw IS just a Locking Set Screw. That has to be removed and in the Recessed Hole is the actual Pilot Adjust Screw. Going to try getting a bigger flame, because it doesn't appear big enough to me to engulf the Probe. Never has been. Too short and thin, does not contact the Probe. This may resolve it, but at least I'll have the part with me on the trip and can change it out on the fly.
UPDATE: I took the Pilot Tube apart last night and shot Gumout through it from the Valve end. The Flame end of the tip had some dark residue on it. The pinhole may have been partially coated over. Two short blasts on the Gumout backfired out the valve end fitting, then it broke thru and started shooting a fine thin stream of mist out the tiny pinhole where the pilot gas exits. Did this three times, dried it out and reinstalled the tube in place.
Now the Flame looks much bigger and healthier, blue and wide with a small orange tip. It is now Engulfing the Thermocouple Probe as the manual says it should. I think this will resolve it. We'll see. If now I will at least have the new Thermocouple onboard to changeout.
Thanks for all the tips and info!
Suburban Water Heater problem
Just thought I'd toss this out there for opinions.
Have a Suburban (think it is an SWH6) model, something like that.
It has a standard Thermocoupler.
Unit Lights with a Flame Stick no problem after a few seconds, hold the button down for 45 sec and Pilot is lit. Turn on valve and it fires up normal, runs full length till water is hot and shuts off.
Few hours later when u want some hot water, not there, just warm.
Go outside and the Pilot is out. Sometimes breezy conditions, sometimes overnight calm. I relight and it is fine for another run.
Thinking either a weak Thermocoupler or Pilot Flame needs adjusted.
Any Tips on Pilot Adjusting? Tried the Adj Screw and really don't see any change, Unless I am overlooking something. There is a Brass Screw for the Adjust. Originally it seemed closed tight all the way.
I turn it counter-clockwise and see no change. Is this the Actual Adjuster Screw, OR is this a Cover Screw Over the Real Adjuster Screw recessed inside the hole?
RE: Surge Guards. Do I need one?
We got a 30A Portable this Spring after reading too many horror stories. It is Peace of Mind.
Found the best Surge Guard prices here where I ordered from.
Surge Guard
RE: Why are the Pigtails of the SurgeGuard So Short?
I discovered this problem in April this year. Barely got it to go into the post and hang down ok. I picked up a 50A to 30A Dogbone before the next outing. When I went to the same SP in late May on a different site, the Surge Guard fit just fine. Did not need the Dogbone on the newer Post. Just depends on the boxes I guess.
If the cord was just an inch longer on the first Post I would have been ok. At least now I have a Dogbone if I run into anymore plug-in problems.
RE: hydrogen generators: diesel
Here's a Link to a Doc that might help you select better and safer components. This is what my two buddies used to build their homebrew units. I don't know why they call it Free Energy, it's not, it's just Supplemental Energy at this level.
HHO Guide
RE: letting the locals in
We have experienced this at one place we stay at in upper Michigan. It is supposed to be a "Resort" Campground. It's expensive. We were disappointed to learn last year they also let the "Locals" (Defined as Neighbors of the Campground) into the Pool area for a small fee and once you are that far in you can go anywhere, so no security in that at all. These are people living in homes surrounding the campground and they walk in. Adding their numbers into the pool area with a campground this size it does make it pretty crowded all around it and in the water. We end up avoiding those times which is really prime pool time. They also have access to the Snack Area, CampStore and Lounge, basically the run of the place.
Now how can it be fair to the campers there footing the majority of the bill for our getaway place, to have to rearrange our pool times to avoid the overcrowded pool area when the walkin's are only paying like $2.50 to get in and we are paying $45+ a night to have all those amenities?? I think it is Reasonable to expect a "Resort" Campground to act and seem like a "Resort" Campground.
For the number of sites filled in every night paying these rates, I think it's not the thing to be allowing since you don't find out about it until you get there and see what is going on.
In momschool's case, being Full Time Residents, it is Reasonable to expect to have Some influence over Management to have the Published Campground Rules Enforced Equally. That's not being Elitist, it's getting what you are paying for. Either they live up to their own policies or time to move elsewhere where Management cares about their base customers who provide their core income. That's where the wheels come into play.
I agree on the Ohio State Parks too. It's what we do most of the time for local camping. Rangers usually patrolling all night long.
RE: Lithium Grease in Wheel Bearings???
Ok, called the Brake Shop mechanic and he told me it's LUBRIPLATE brand Wheel Bearing Grease. After he looked the can over he couldn't find the word Lithium on it anywhere, however it does contain it. He just assumed it was because it is light colored like white lithium grease.
I went to their website and found this Datasheet:
LUBRIPLATE Wheel Bearing Grease Specs.
I think I am in good shape with this stuff. They have been using it for over 20 years. It was spec'd out by the GE Plant here for their machinery bearings and the shop uses it on all trailers, Buses, Ambulances etc. for the County. After two years use they come in and he said it still looks like brand new grease. Sounds like good stuff.
RE: Cleaning black streaks on Aluminum sides
Had the best luck so far using AWESOME from the Dollar General Store.
Just wet it down with water, sprayed it on and used my RV Brush or a soft bug sponge or mitten to loosen it up. Rinse off after a few minutes, don't let the AWESOME dry on the paint.
I also finally found how to stop my black streaking on aluminum.
First I jacked the front of the trailer up high, as if it is ready to go over the hitch ball. I leave it sitting front end high now when I unhitch so it drains off the rear gutter spouts.
Then I got up on the ladder and found the rain gutters full of dark green to black mold and algae looking stuff from sitting level all the time and since the gutters aren't sloped right to drain, the water just sat there and grew algae. I sprayed AWESOME in the Gutters and let it soak for about 5-10 minutes, then I blasted it out with the hose and a spray nozzle. Made that aluminum gutter shine down in the groove like brand new!
After that I sprayed AWESOME on the Rubber Roof overlap just above the gutters and used a toothbrush to scrub the black residue off it.
Made the Rubber Roof edge shine bright white.
Now it has been sitting out there for 5-6 weeks and I have No Black Streaks. I haven't even washed it since before our trip in May.
I think most of the black streaking was from that standing water in the gutters building up mold and algae crud and rolling over the gutter edges down the sides. Going to keep checking them but since the front is so high now, I get a fast runoff to the rear spouts when it rains. It shoots the water out away from the corners of the TT.
Lithium Grease in Wheel Bearings???
Got the TT Wheel Bearings pulled, inspected, seals replaced and bearings repacked today. The original grease was a black grease the mechanic said. He used Lithium Grease to repack them.
Is Lithium Grease acceptable to use for repacking Bearings??
RE: nitrogen for tires
Took the TT and got the Wheel Bearings Repacked and Seals replaced.
After that took it to the next shop and did get the two birm tires evacuated and refilled with Nitrogen for free. It was a Lifetime Refill so for $20 a year ago not a bad deal. I like the way I never have to top them off, holds the pressure constant, unlike straight air that slowly bleeds off.
I think the twenty bucks was worth it since I know at any given time I could race the TT at any Nascar Track I might pass along the way and still be safe. What do you think they are running in that UPS Truck!? :W
RE: Be safe and don't get in a hurry
Thats why I wear my helmet all the time. Wife complains like all tarnation, but you never know. She says I can't my bald head clean in the shower with the helmet on, yea right. Bill
I have no problem with my Ventilated Bike Helmet, the soap and water gets in through those slots with no problem. Drying is a little more difficult...
RE: nitrogen for tires
I think it is just another service to sell, but I got my TT and TV done for $20 each and it is a lifetime refill. Taking it back to the tire shop Tues. after the bearings are repacked and getting the rim side tires redone for free hopefully. They Evac the air first then fill with Nitro. Last year at a campground while we were away for a half-day trip, somebody malicious thought they were being funny and they Overinflated two of the TT Tires from 50#'s to 65# in one and 75# in the other. Surprised it didn't blow off the rim right there in their face. So those two tires are mostly air now and don't match the other side.
I like it in the TT tires to keep them running cooler, I also never need to add air. They stay nailed on 50#'s. (unless tampered with)
In the Durango I don't like it because it made the tires seem Hard, rides harder. I have a mix of Nitrogen and Air in the TV tires now, not maintaining the Nitro level.
RE: Power Jacks????
Go for the largest capacity your budget will allow. Should you buy a larger TT you can transfer it over. We have an Atwood 3500 which we have been very satisfied with.
Same here. Got an Atwood 3500 this Spring, has a light and works well. I like the Ball Bearing Drive system. Sure makes using an Equal-i-zer much faster and easier!
Atwood 3500 Jack
RE: Saudi Arabia increases oil output
Sounds good, but will not help fuel prices. Until our government, starting from Jimmy Carter, adopts a viable energy policy, we are at the mercy of countries who are not overly fond of us. And until we stand up to the enviromenatlists who don't want us to recover oil were it is in our country, use nuclear, hydrogen, coal, and lots of other resources, then things will at best remain the same.
You got it Dude! Right On Right On! Crank up and produce our own energy again. Quit selling out everything that was always our strengths to our enemies.
RE: Greasing bearings
Our trailer is only a year old travel wise and estimating about 4000 miles on it. I'm having the bearings pulled, inspected and repacked this Tuesday at a local Brake and Tire Shop that still does Wheel Bearings and especially on all sorts of trailers. Approx. $140 to have it done.
Just getting some peace of mind before the big trip next month. Heard too many say on here about some units coming off the lines with little grease in them. The Shop just told me yesterday he did a new Horse Trailer this week, and that on one bearing it didn't have enough grease to cover the palm of your hand. Glad I decided to get them checked out so I have a solid reference point from when I know it was done properly.
